
The 3DBenchy has been printered at 150mm/sec after several layers at 50mm/sec.
Likely, I've run the same set up more than 5 hours to print a couple of things and the last thing while recording the previous video is just finished now.
I've seen this in Youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4OGfAHRnhY, later I consider to build the PCB, but the 3-Axis board is in my shopping cart already and will try later.rooted wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 2:25 pmThose prints look great, I've been wanting to try klipper for this awesome feature since ghosting or ringing is such a problem at high speeds.
https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html
I would take the word "SBC DRIVREN PRINTER".hominoid wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 9:52 amI do want to give klipper a try on my c4, I haven't yet. I'm evaluating whether to upgrade my current printer or build a new one. I was also kinda waiting to see how this project turned out because I might like to do something similar. If I do, starting with a new build to take advantage of the speed and accuracy capability of a sbc driven printer would be my preference. Getting to start with a clean slate with a new design is certainly appealing. if I upgrade, I think I might regret not having kept around my prusa i3 v1 I built all those years ago.
When my funds are adequate I plan on building a HevORT, similar to Voron in price. CoreXY is definitely the way to go.tobetter wrote:I would take the word "SBC DRIVREN PRINTER".hominoid wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 9:52 amI do want to give klipper a try on my c4, I haven't yet. I'm evaluating whether to upgrade my current printer or build a new one. I was also kinda waiting to see how this project turned out because I might like to do something similar. If I do, starting with a new build to take advantage of the speed and accuracy capability of a sbc driven printer would be my preference. Getting to start with a clean slate with a new design is certainly appealing. if I upgrade, I think I might regret not having kept around my prusa i3 v1 I built all those years ago.
Personally, I would go for Voron if my budget permits and want to try with ODROID as well. As of now, I would like to try more stable hardware with this ODROID print setup.
HevORT is like Linux with PC while Voron is Apple to me, I perfer to have more fancy one.rooted wrote: ↑Thu Jan 28, 2021 3:00 amWhen my funds are adequate I plan on building a HevORT, similar to Voron in price. CoreXY is definitely the way to go.tobetter wrote:I would take the word "SBC DRIVREN PRINTER".hominoid wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 9:52 amI do want to give klipper a try on my c4, I haven't yet. I'm evaluating whether to upgrade my current printer or build a new one. I was also kinda waiting to see how this project turned out because I might like to do something similar. If I do, starting with a new build to take advantage of the speed and accuracy capability of a sbc driven printer would be my preference. Getting to start with a clean slate with a new design is certainly appealing. if I upgrade, I think I might regret not having kept around my prusa i3 v1 I built all those years ago.
Personally, I would go for Voron if my budget permits and want to try with ODROID as well. As of now, I would like to try more stable hardware with this ODROID print setup.
https://youtu.be/ibsBiALMMSE
I look forward to your results.tobetter wrote:
HevORT is like Linux with PC while Voron is Apple to me, I perfer to have more fancy one.I've ordered the accelometer sensor board and will see I can run it in this weekend.
Ha....
Have you done this with your printer?
No my printer doesn't support klipper currently and I've not replaced the board with the SKR Pro yet.
Sure, klipper works on a lot of printers.joerg wrote:Thanks, @tobetter. I am thinking about to make one. But I am newbie with 3d printers. Would it be possible to use it also with other models as ender3?
As @rooted mentioned, the shiled board only works for a printer with 4 steppers(X/Y/Z/E) so in general it would work after struggling the configration with Klipper, but it's way easier and better than Marlin. I've built the Klipper ready OS image for ODROID-C4, so no need to purchase RPi, let me know if you need to use ODROID-N2 or -HC4, I can build the image for you.
Thanks, Ender-3 with the board is running every weekend and is completely assembled last weekend. I had "mcu shutdown" issue like this, but after removing a couple of lines which emit the shutdown, the issue does not come again and never had a critical quality issue yet.
Ha...it's very strong extruder but have a bit noisy retraction. Funny thing is that the noise becomes very low with LDO 23mm stepper. That's the reason to think of replacing X-Y steppers with LDO 40mm steppers. In addition, I've installed Chinese Linear Guides, not HiWin brand, they work nicely better than I expected.
Thank you, I am happy to build my own, a bit sad I could not get inputs about the effort...I've played in the Klipper discord with this stuff but no one is interesting in...You have done a lot of nice work. I agree you could get Chinese stuff much cheaper but there has to be satisfaction from designing and building your own. Also boards from China have terrible quality control and you may have to buy more than one over time because of failure.
Maybe...then I would have Voron 2.4 for testing...
That's what we call a win wintobetter wrote:Maybe...then I would have Voron 2.4 for testing...
The advantage of using this board is that one do not need to struggle to wire the motors and sensors.
Thank you, I wish to see your NEW printer...
I received my PCB’s for the 3DPrinterShield and their beautiful in black. I have almost all the parts for the PCB build. The vcc terminal block is out of stock at Digi-Key with a mid June restocking. I have something that might work in it’s stead but we’ll have to see how that goes and the 2209 and 5160 stepper drivers are on their way. While waiting, I have been doing a deeper dive into the several printer designs and upgrades, including test prints for some, to see what issues there are and what resources are necessary for the build. I haven’t decided yet what I’m going to drive with this board but upgrading my current printer is still a strong possibility due to the length of time and/or part availability for the new builds that interest me the most.tobetter wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 11:47 amThank you, I wish to see your NEW printer...
This design is quite simple as you see, not complicated...so...maybe someone can try...
Also, I've update the first page for other resources.
viewtopic.php?p=313473#p313473
WoW!! I haven't imagine anyone build the board...I really like to see it works with your new printer, am curious also what it looks like and how it performs. One problem I am afraid of is you waste your money due to the cost of build the board. I wish it does not happen...please let us know how it goes...hominoid wrote: ↑Wed Apr 28, 2021 6:48 amI received my PCB’s for the 3DPrinterShield and their beautiful in black. I have almost all the parts for the PCB build. The vcc terminal block is out of stock at Digi-Key with a mid June restocking. I have something that might work in it’s stead but we’ll have to see how that goes and the 2209 and 5160 stepper drivers are on their way.tobetter wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 11:47 amThank you, I wish to see your NEW printer...
This design is quite simple as you see, not complicated...so...maybe someone can try...
Also, I've update the first page for other resources.
viewtopic.php?p=313473#p313473
pcb-parts1.png
While waiting, I have been doing a deeper dive into the several printer designs and upgrades, including test prints for some, to see what issues there are and what resources are necessary for the build. I haven’t decided yet what I’m going to drive with this board but upgrading my current printer is still a strong possibility due to the length of time and/or part availability for the new builds that interest me the most.
One last thing, the gerber files in the op do not have any hole data currently. I had to generated it for my PCB production but, I have to imagine it was not intended to be left out.
That’s a great deal. They will definitely handle anything I’ll be doing.rooted wrote: ↑Wed Apr 28, 2021 5:30 pmtmc5160 are expensive, I lucked out and got 8 for only $40 but I've not used them yet.
I went with them due to better thermal characteristics and higher amperage handling if I ever needed it.
I know people running HevORT printers on tmc2209 up around 500mm/s so they are definitely enough for what we are doing with them.
I will post some pictures once it’s together and working with an update on it’s performance. Regardless of what happens it will not be a waste of money, so don’t worry. The early RAMPS boards were expensive to build before they were mass produced starting with RAMPS 1.4. And, the general response of the REP-RAP community was a collective yawn when 32 bit micro-controllers were first introduced for 3D printing. They were scarce, expensive and worked with almost no printers. It took years for them to become the dominate controller. So, I’m not surprised by the low interest right now with your effort to bring application processors forward. Many people focus on what’s in front of them and relevant now, not in the future, technology leaders look forward and act.tobetter wrote: ↑Wed Apr 28, 2021 10:16 pmWoW!! I haven't imagine anyone build the board...I really like to see it works with your new printer, am curious also what it looks like and how it performs. One problem I am afraid of is you waste your money due to the cost of build the board. I wish it does not happen...please let us know how it goes...
Good luck!!
That sounds great mate, I would love to see this project grow into something which can power any printer or CNC.hominoid wrote: So my game plan is to test and confirm the operational readiness of your approach for my own use and as a historical means of providing a documented independent peer review of your work. Once that is accomplished, depending on your direction and plans, I would like to work on expanding it to include more motor and sensor support so there is enough I/O for any printer design, there by helping to solidify application processors as the new paradigm in 3D printing moving forward.
I know PandaPi and seeing that they have 500+ facebook members. Since RPI does not have on-board ADC, they would need yet another component for it or STM32 is required for time critical motor driving. I've not tested GPIO expand chip yet. I've added this for version 2 in order to assign the pins to control low speed signals such as heat on/off and limit switch sensors, and assign CPU gpio pins to more steppers for additional extruder or z-axis. In order to test more faster printing, like 300+mm/s with 10000 accels, I need more tighten printer frame. Since I have no such printer, like Voron 2.4, and I already spent much money to purchase components and tools, no plan for version 2 yet.hominoid wrote: ↑Thu Apr 29, 2021 6:33 amIt looks like PandaPi has made more progress since the beginning of the year and has a real-time kernel and supports Klipper if you have the latest revision of their board. Kudos for what they have accomplished but it still uses a sm32 micro-controller as well as the PI4 to control the printer. I would like a printer control board that is 100% application processor driven, you loose to many advantages doing otherwise. For instance it still limits the potential for printer speed increases to the SM32 they use in their design. @tobetter has a I2C to PIO in his current design that adds 16 more IO lines which is enough for 2 more motors. I don't know if he has it working yet or not but if so then the same approach could be used to expand it further while retaining 100% application processor control and speed with no micro-controllers.
EDIT: It's also a proprietary product and not open.![]()
I understand and thanks for the offer to help if needed.
I was doing more reading last night at the PandaPI git and web site, there does appear to be different HW modes as your indicating. As far as the openness, the micro-controller firmware is posted and there is a schematic but it doesn't have all the components properly labeled. So some information but not enough to reproduce the project as far as I can tell.rooted wrote: ↑Thu Apr 29, 2021 4:30 pm@hominoid
It has two modes of operation I believe, the Pi can directly drive the steppers and the MCU drives the heated bed and possibly some other pins or you can run klipper on the MCU and it behaves in the traditional way unless I'm misinterpreting.
Yeah I'm not sure why it's not open, I thought it was.
I am looking forward this board works for you.
Sorry, I had to replace IRFR024N to IRLR7843TRPBF due to the gate threadhold voltage, I missed this part to use 5V signal. Using the short ribbon cable would work, I've used while debugging the signals.hominoid wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 11:35 pmI generated a BOM from the schematic so I 'm using the same ones as indicated on the schematic, IRFR024N and IRLR7843TRPBF. I'll be doing an initial power-up test later today or tomorrow so hopefully they are ok. Let me know if you ended up using different ones for some reason. Another minor technical issue I had was regarding what forward bias to use for the leds, I ended up going with 2v. Did you try a ribbon cable between the C4 and shield or only the direct connect shield setup? Regardless, worst case I do some de-soldering and order more parts.
So you replaced all three IRFR024N with IRLR7843TRPBF. I'll have to order some, I only have one more on hand. One other clarification since I have to order parts, the diodes D1 and D2 are listed as S1D and S1G on the schematics but I noticed a note referencing a 1n4001 for both, was there another change, which is correct? I know you used the RAMPS design as a reference in some areas and that's what they use, please clarify.
I've used S1D and S1G on my board, their footprints are identical 1N4001, intended to test other diodes as well.hominoid wrote: ↑Sun May 02, 2021 1:47 amSo you replaced all three IRFR024N with IRLR7843TRPBF. I'll have to order some, I only have one more on hand. One other clarification since I have to order parts, the diodes D1 and D2 are listed as S1D and S1G on the schematics but I noticed a note referencing a 1n4001 for both, was there another change, which is correct? I know you used the RAMPS design as a reference in some areas and that's what they use, please clarify.
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