Odroid H2 metal case

julian1412 · Unread post by **julian1412** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 7:59 am

Please participate in the poll. Your vote is important to show how important this topic is for you. Perhaps odroid or anyone else will create a solution if there is a big demand.

Hello,

I'm looking for a Odroid H2 metal case. Something like that case by RockPro64: https://www.pine64.org/?product=rockpro ... nas-casing

Will you create some metal cases? Or does anyone know an alternative to the plastic cases?

Unread post by **odroid** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:38 am

We have no plan to make a metal case at this moment.

jlee60 · Unread post by **jlee60** » Sat Dec 22, 2018 9:13 pm

Come on, you need to get with the program. You need to make an Odroid-H4 that supports 4 drives and a metal case for it. I am not a fan of the acrylic cases because I am concerned about static electricity build up which can damage the board or the hard drives.

You should really listen to your customers because they know what they want and need. It only helps your company

psomero · Unread post by **psomero** » Sun Dec 23, 2018 3:18 am

jlee60 wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 22, 2018 9:13 pm
Come on, you need to get with the program. You need to make an Odroid-H4 that supports 4 drives and a metal case for it. I am not a fan of the acrylic cases because I am concerned about static electricity build up which can damage the board or the hard drives.

You should really listen to your customers because they know what they want and need. It only helps your company

Don't get me wrong - I have a type 4 case and I'm not nuts about it. It is a bit of a hassle to work with, and it is huge with a lot of unoptimized space. For the money, it works good enough.

A metal case would be at least 5-10x the cost versus a laser cut acrylic one in the quantities that HK would be producing them, and I doubt that most customers would be willing to spring for that much cost.

KuJoe · Unread post by **KuJoe** » Sun Dec 23, 2018 1:00 pm

I don't care if it's made of metal or not, I just want a solid case (2-3 pieces, not 6).

julian1412 · Unread post by **julian1412** » Wed Dec 26, 2018 2:59 am

psomero wrote: ↑
Sun Dec 23, 2018 3:18 am

jlee60 wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 22, 2018 9:13 pm
Come on, you need to get with the program. You need to make an Odroid-H4 that supports 4 drives and a metal case for it. I am not a fan of the acrylic cases because I am concerned about static electricity build up which can damage the board or the hard drives.

You should really listen to your customers because they know what they want and need. It only helps your company
Don't get me wrong - I have a type 4 case and I'm not nuts about it. It is a bit of a hassle to work with, and it is huge with a lot of unoptimized space. For the money, it works good enough.

A metal case would be at least 5-10x the cost versus a laser cut acrylic one in the quantities that HK would be producing them, and I doubt that most customers would be willing to spring for that much cost.

The RockPro64 case costs 44,99$ and the H2 Type 1 case costs 13,90$, that means a metal case would cost just 3 times more.

If the Odroid team will not build a metal case anybody else will build it. There is definitively inquiry for such a case regardless the outcome of this poll. A metal case looks much better than the current plastic cases and are preferred by NAS builders.

lazlo · Unread post by **lazlo** » Thu Dec 27, 2018 1:51 pm

If I owned an H2 I would want a metal case. I am clumsy and I drop stuff. I would hate to smash a computer in a plastic case with a bowl of beans and rice.

On the other hand, what I think you should be looking into are ways to mod mini-ITX cases to fit your needs. It would be trivial to 3D print an adapter plate to secure the H2 inside a larger case. You would need a few holes in the plate to give the m.2 port, eMMC port, and RAM modules room to breath. The case mounting point of the PSU could either be used to attach a fan for extra cooling or another plate to close off the opening. Then you would just need a cover that matched the I/O and power ports in the back. With all of unused room in the case you could have a lot of fun designing and testing ways to use it.

rooted · Unread post by **rooted** » Thu Dec 27, 2018 2:41 pm

That is a nice idea lazlo, I could see that working well.

KuJoe · Unread post by **KuJoe** » Thu Dec 27, 2018 3:14 pm

Something like this can probably be adapted with a little work: http://www.mini-box.com/Enclosures

rooted · Unread post by **rooted** » Thu Dec 27, 2018 3:27 pm

I think even something like this would work

https://ebay.us/SaM0uL[IMG]https://uplo ... 8156d2.jpg[/IMG]

venkatbo · Unread post by **venkatbo** » Thu Dec 27, 2018 3:52 pm

What would be nice is thin metal sheets (like those that come with regular motherboards) for the mini-ITX formfactor, "stamped" with holes exposing the "ports". They will be custom for the H2, but installable in OTS mini-ITX cases like this:

: s-l400.jpg (15.08 KiB) Viewed 5414 times

Essentially they would be metal plate versions of items A & B (in mini-ITX formfactor):

: H2Case2parts-3.jpg (99.44 KiB) Viewed 5414 times

.
Like so:

: bacplate.jpg (43.76 KiB) Viewed 5412 times

lazlo · Unread post by **lazlo** » Thu Dec 27, 2018 4:07 pm

OK, after looking around, I think I found a really good one. First let's revisit the idea of the adapter plate. It's not should be a plate so much as a gasket. It should mostly empty space with just enough 3D printed plastic to hold the H2 securely to the chassis. Then you mount it in one of these:

https://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/Cub ... design.htm

Edit: Good call @venkatbo!

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Sat Dec 29, 2018 12:59 am

I like the idea @lazlo.
This is a simple model of your idea. The adapter needs to lift the odroid motherboard enough
to clear the nvme and ram and still fit in the opening provided in the mini-itx standard. 5mm thick looks about right.

Just showing a pocket hole for now, would need to confirm clearances below the h2 before making int.

I found a very helpful site at https://www.protocase.com/resources/how ... herboards/ for mini-itx dimensions.

The attached pictures show the adapter as the orange plate, and clearances as grayed out zones. You
would still need to consider rigidity and cooling vents to get air to the ram, but this is a start.

stl and rsdoc model (Designspark) available if someone wants to modify it.

rooted · Unread post by **rooted** » Sat Dec 29, 2018 1:38 am

Nice work boverby, thanks for sharing.

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Sat Dec 29, 2018 2:23 am

minimalist version , just 2 holes to mini-itx chassis, but a lot less printing and adds faceplate. Press in capture nuts for h2 in bottom.

julian1412 · Unread post by **julian1412** » Sat Dec 29, 2018 2:58 am

@boverby that looks pretty nice. It would be very interesting how this works in practice

venkatbo · Unread post by **venkatbo** » Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:38 am

@boverby, nice pix. Your design is ideal for a 3d printed plate.

lazlo · Unread post by **lazlo** » Sun Dec 30, 2018 9:09 pm

@boverby,

That is very nice stuff. My final idea of something for the adapter gasket was shaped something like this:

: chopped-adapter-mini-itx-top.png (22.53 KiB) Viewed 5128 times

I thought that the arms going to the screw holes would increase stability while reducing the materials used in printing. Running along the length of the bottom of the arms there would a series of small vertical ridges to increase structural strength and act as stand-offs to the mounting plate.

I have no experience with 3d printing and I don't know if it would be strong enough or too complex.

I really like the design with the back plate built in, but I would like it better if it had a third mount point. Two points in space define a line while a plane is defined by three.

Again, great work. It's really cool to see your ideas and thanks for sharing!

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Mon Dec 31, 2018 8:16 am

@lazlo, I agree on the three points, but my third point is actually the 5mm thickness resting on the inside bottom of the case. The two mounting holes just serve to keep the face plate pushed up against the back of the enclosure and to keep it from "lifting". I did scrounge an old Morex mini-itx enclosure out of the back of the closet and the dimensions will require more geometry changes. The mounting nuts are only about 5mm tall instead of 3/8". The opening is the right size, but lower at bottom because of the mounting nut height. I'm thinking of changing to a two piece assembly to allow more float/customization in the faceplate since that might vary per case. will probably use flat head screws from back to hold it on. I;ll be printing some prototypes this week, will include updates as I go.

keep the ideas coming.

lazlo · Unread post by **lazlo** » Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:02 pm

@boverby

Right now the only thing I would suggest is that you test the mounting both horizontally and vertically. I'll give the designs some more though and post again if I can think of anything.

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Tue Jan 01, 2019 10:20 am

next iteration. Went with two piece assembly for now to allow refining the dimensions. Already know I can extrude the face another 1mm to 1.5mm to push deeper into the opening. I also need to reassess hardware size for shorter screws (will probably add boss to "lift" head to make screw longer. Then I need to re-level the bed and work on adhesion. Pleased so far.

rooted · Unread post by **rooted** » Tue Jan 01, 2019 11:19 am

I really like this iteration, looks sturdy.

venkatbo · Unread post by **venkatbo** » Tue Jan 01, 2019 12:32 pm

Nice iteration. Wondering if it would help to "break up" the design further by "detaching" the "triangular feet" - by creating two triangular feet (pre-drilled for screws) that can be positioned at top or bottom...

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Wed Jan 02, 2019 12:16 am

@venkatbo , Interesting idea. It might make it easier to produce on a 3d printer that had limited height also.

I was using the two piece design to simplify adjusting the faceplate dimensions to fine tune the fit. After the dimensions settle down, I was intending to go back to a single piece design for my own use. Judging from the fit I got using the protocase.com dimensions and the enclosure I had, the face might need to remain replaceable for generic use. Everything was within 1mm of where it was supposed to be except the threaded post motherboard mounts. In this actual Morex enclosure ( about 5 years old) , the mounts were about 5mm tall instead of 9.53mm

The net effect was to make the audio stack rub the top of the case opening. You need at least 10mm below the board for ram/nvme and 35mm above the board for audio. If you used these parts on a case like protocase describes, the base would not be touching the bottom and the audio stack might be above the opening.

I suspect that the distance from the top of the threaded post height to the opening is consistent across enclosures. in this example, I needed to lift the odroid about 5mm above the threaded post for ram clearance and that left the audio stack brushing the top of the opening. After the next fit up, i might need to recess the whole assembly to avoid hitting the case. The audio connections have plenty of clearance even though the top is rubbing.

I would be interested in what threaded post height other people were seeing...

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Wed Jan 02, 2019 1:01 am

yep, it hits

plenty of room for audio plug, just need to allow for more headroom in face. third iteration on the way.

Seeing it in there, I could see extending the rear of the base to hold the 2 SATA drives ( left to your imagination), maybe at a 30 degree angle for height clearance

lazlo · Unread post by **lazlo** » Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:47 am

@boverby

The ports do not need to flush with the back of the case as long as the plate provides enough room for someone trying to jiggle cables into place. Perhaps you can take advantage of this and move the board "forward" (away from the back plate) a few millimetres.

Also, you know how most network switches have "screw slot" mounts in the back? Well your adapter design leave a few of the case mounting screws unused. You could design a drive cage that slides and locks into place. Give the slots enough room to account for a standard metal stand-off with a screw inside it. Then build upwards from the base to provide enough room to mount the drives plus enough enough air flow for cooling. The openings in the cage to mount the drives should point toward the front and back of the case to increase airflow through the cage.

It might not work like I think it will, and I might not be explaining my ideas very well, but I hope it gives you some inspiration.

psomero · Unread post by **psomero** » Wed Jan 02, 2019 7:19 am

lose the captured hex nuts and use some thread forming screws. "Plastite" is a common brand which works well with FDM parts. I always use them instead of machine screws:

https://www.mcmaster.com/99397a414

https://apexfasteners.com/fasteners/plastite

Thery're on amazon too

You can print the hole on-size (#42 wire gauge = .093" / 2.35mm)

You could then thin out the base plate

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Thu Jan 03, 2019 1:54 am

last iteration: added a little headroom for audio and narrowed face enough to clear sides and pushed face out to be near flush.

This is good enough for me as an exercise. I'm not going to re-shape to single piece because I'll probably go back to my sled design anyway https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3289428 for everyday use. That model includes a step file for H2 motherboard if anyone wants to try alternatives.

If i was to continue, I'm sure I would revisit fastener lengths , trimming excess plastic and research whether 9.53 mm threaded posts are more common. Having two mounting posts and resting on inside of case makes it reasonably sturdy.

julian1412 · Unread post by **julian1412** » Sat Jan 05, 2019 4:31 pm

boverby wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 03, 2019 1:54 am
last iteration: added a little headroom for audio and narrowed face enough to clear sides and pushed face out to be near flush.

This is good enough for me as an exercise. I'm not going to re-shape to single piece because I'll probably go back to my sled design anyway https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3289428 for everyday use. That model includes a step file for H2 motherboard if anyone wants to try alternatives.

If i was to continue, I'm sure I would revisit fastener lengths , trimming excess plastic and research whether 9.53 mm threaded posts are more common. Having two mounting posts and resting on inside of case makes it reasonably sturdy.

Can we download/use your work anywhere (the new one)? What requirements must cases have to be compatible with your adapter?

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Sat Jan 05, 2019 11:16 pm

@julian1412, I'll put something on thingiverse.

Concerning compatability, this chassis differed from thehttps://www.protocase.com/resources/how ... herboards/ dimensions because the threaded post supporting the motherboard were only 5mm instead of 9.53mm. I don't know how common that is. Since you need 10mm+ below h2 motherboard for ram/nvme this caused the clearance problem for audio. I suspect that the top of post to bottom of opening is probably the industry standard reference dimension.

Upload will include step files and rsdoc files for others to modify (easier than stl). Projects like this are simple with the free designspark tool, but you never see it mentioned in reviews of available cad software. Its a shame since the tools are more intuitive than autodesk products (which are still great products).

psomero · Unread post by **psomero** » Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:30 am

boverby wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 03, 2019 1:54 am

research whether 9.53 mm threaded posts are more common

9.53 = .375", so round (fractional) measure in imperial. Probably somewhat common.

boverby · Unread post by **boverby** » Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:11 am

it is uploaded https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338196

a 3d pdf is included if you want to spin it around.

julian1412 · Unread post by **julian1412** » Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:17 pm

boverby wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:11 am
it is uploaded https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338196

a 3d pdf is included if you want to spin it around.

Thank you!

jlee60 · Unread post by **jlee60** » Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:42 am

I found a case made just for the Odroid H2 from KKSB Quality cases and it will be available May 5, 2019 for approximately $28.00 USD.
Here is the link https://www.kksb-cases.com/store/p246/K ... _Case.html

brunoscorreia · Unread post by **brunoscorreia** » Tue Apr 09, 2019 11:41 pm

jlee60 wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:42 am
I found a case made just for the Odroid H2 from KKSB Quality cases and it will be available May 5, 2019 for approximately $28.00 USD.
Here is the link https://www.kksb-cases.com/store/p246/K ... _Case.html

viewtopic.php?f=171&t=33598#p251246

Darck · Unread post by **Darck** » Thu Nov 14, 2019 4:55 am

Hello,

I have done a thinner mini ITX adapter. Need to make the rear plate too:

ODROID

Odroid H2 metal case

Would you buy a metal case for Odroid H2?

Odroid H2 metal case

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