XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

zarcondeegrissom
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Sun Mar 20, 2016 3:31 am

What is the best we can expect is what I was looking at last night. Unfortunately I was not able to find a PDF for the Exynos chip that listed the C/W for the chip package (Junction-to-Case), tho I think I have an idea what it is at this point. Also I think I know what the lower limits are as well. I will start this off by saying the Odroid Xu4 is back to the former config with the stock heat-sink with a copper heat spreader and copper shims.
IMG_4567crop1_BackToStock_w700.jpg
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Now I can not stress the risks enough with the test that I did. There are SMD caps that are only 0.1mm away from the height of the top of the CPU, and there not something you want shorting out unless you want a dead Odroid. Second is the fact that a Tower cooler is going to put quite a bit of stress on the PCB if the top is pushed to the side, pretty much guaranteeing a broken PCB. Shims on the shorter chips are a must to keep the heat-sink off the SMD caps and flat on the off-centered CPU, and I was quite stupid doing this without a backing plate to keep the PCB from bending under the force of the heat-sink mounts. This was a thermal test and I had no intention of running the Odroid under these conditions beyond the test.
IMG_4500_width700.jpg
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So, the question is, how good is it, and Is it worth it. Well, this is about as good as it can get with current tower coolers. The pipe is on the bottom of the bracket in direct contact with the heat spreader, and it is directly over one edge of the CPU (as close as I could get it to being on the CPU). This cooler would not fit under my monitor, and it ended up in the flow of the fan keeping my displays cool, so it was essentially actively cooled as well by a fan without any thermal control at all. So I think that is about as ideal a cooling set up one can get with the Xu4, without making a costume heat-sink at a machine shop.
IMG_4495_width700.jpg
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Now, to start with, there was no thermal control on the desk fan blowing across the fins, and thus the temps under load got up to around 70c. That sounds high, however the telling thing is the empty desktop temps at idle vs the watts used there. Idling the temps dropped to 33c minimum, and the base of the heat-sink was at 28.333c (83F) with the room still at 23.888c (75F). That's a drop of 4.67c from the glass to the base of the heat-sink. In another thread it was mentioned that the Xu4 under the same exact idle mode (Interactive) runs at about 1.7 to 1.8 watts with periodic spicks up to 2.2 watts.
http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=97&t=15938
So, looking at some simple numbers, 2.2 watts into 4.67c temp rise in the chip gives about 2.1227 c/w (Celsius rise per Watt of heat) thermal resistance of the chip. looking at the worst case of 1.7 watts gives 2.747 c/w junction rise over the base of the heat-sink. That's actually kind of good considering some chips are in the 50 to 200 c/w from the glass to the outside of the plastic chip package. It also explains the wild swings in operating temp under load, given that 2 watts gives about 5.494c hotter chip then the base of the heat-sink. 4 watts gives about 10.988c glass to heat-sink base, 8 watts gives 21.976c glass to heat-sink base, 12 watts gives 32.964c glass to heat-sink base, and so on multiplying watts by 2.747 to give the rise in temp Celsius. And that is at the base of the heat-sink before any of the heat-sink effectiveness is involved. A heat-sink not being flat on the CPU will make that rise much worse. To go fan-less, you must have a solid thermal contact with the CPU.

The stock heat-sink with a copper heat spreader was not much worse at all with the temps. 34c lowest temp at an empty desktop idling. The highest temp I measured at the base of the heat sink with the Xu4 idling was 28.888c (84F), that's a difference of only 5.114C Junction-to-heat-sink-base. That's 1c hotter then the Tower at the glass, and not much higher for the thermal rise 3.008 c/w vs 2.747 c/w. Yes the tower was better, not by much, and the risk of breaking the PCB just doesn't justify it for me.
Last edited by zarcondeegrissom on Thu Mar 24, 2016 6:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
A computer is a Tool that is supposed to make our lives easier, not make our lives wait for the computer. - ZDG

filemoon
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by filemoon » Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:30 am

What system (linux, android) are you using and what is your test procedure?

Can you test is using linux and sysbench (sysbench --num-threads=8 --test=cpu --cpu-max-prime=2000000 run) - let test how efficient is cooling (temperature + (no)throttling).

Your towers are not good enough - pure copper base may be what we need.
Nexus Antazone AS-N2000, AS-N1000 maybe - but I prefer to test Swiftech.

zarcondeegrissom
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:12 am

I know it was posted some time ago, and it was not completely clear, sorry. Also I'm making an assumption that many like my self are looking at the Odroid Xu4 as a possible Entertainment PC alternative. It must play vids smooth, and not have any fan noise. If your looking for something more demanding, you Must have an active cooling solution (even if it is room fans blowing across a rack of Odroids as a cluster in an AC cooled room).
(re-post from Thu Mar 17, 2016 1:47 pm)
OK, just from feel after having it run to look at temps (that xterm is tedious for getting temps), the CPU is the hottest. The second hottest is somewhere around the other two big chips under the heat-sink. Oh, I think a majority of heat is from the CPU, as it is more then just a CPU. There is ram chips stacked up in there as well, so that may effect thermal dissipation quite a bit (to what extent I don't know, tho die stacking did have that disadvantage in years past).

before mods, 52c to 56c idling, 60c to 86c (186.8F) playing a youtube vid (480p in-window big-box, not full screen). So I'm still a tad uncomfortable, as we are at the max Athalon Thunderbird CPU die-temp. In fact, I don't like my chips getting over 70c die with the room at 75F (about 23c). It's not summer yet, and it dose get warmer in the summer :shock: at 85F (29c) summer room temps, that 145.4F (63c) temp rise brings the glass up to 197.6F (92c). Thats why I'm looking at this
(End of re-post snip-it)
To start with, after getting the Xu4 to work with my display,
http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=19453
I relaxed a bit by watching some music vids.
OdroidXu4_Running_IMG_4201qs.jpg
Odroid running many days ago
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I took the time to look into getting some stats up on the task bar, and look into getting a temp monitor going. At first all I could find was a rather tedious xterm command prompt thing.
Screenshot-Untitled Window.png
idle empty desktop Temps this morning with the copper heat spreader on the stock cooler, with shims on the shorter chips.
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It was from that method I noted the temps "before mods" while idle at the desk top with only the xterm open, and while watching 480p youtube music vids. While the method is not the best by some, it is enough to know the Xu4 is going to get realy hot under 'Full load bench' if not be killed by it. I don't want to kill the odroid, so I'll settle for testing with a slightly lower load that the Pi2 just can't muster the flops to do without skipping video and popping audio, lol. So, I watched a bunch of vids while looking at the temps in the xterm window. Then I shut it down to look at the case to see if the Noctua fan would fit on the thing, when I pooled out the PCB from the case, I could feel how worm the board was with my hand. I then grabbed my "Raytek MiniTemp MT" to look at the actual temps of the PCB was at different locations while the Xu4 was running. That's how I got 90F (32.222c) on the gigibit chip, and 97F (36.111c) over by the I2S/PIO plug (between the two plugs on the top corner of the PCB). I also have a 'Taylor' room temp thing giving me 75.0F (23.888c) for the room temp. I also have a cook's temp-probe on my desk to show me the temps in the hutch, it is also showing 75F, so I'm fairly shure what the room temp is in here, lol. I did eventually discover a method for putting the Xu4 core temps on the task bar using the "Command Applet" thing.
Screenshot-4_crop1.png
idle empty desktop Temp this morning with the copper heat spreader on the stock cooler, with shims on the shorter chips.
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So that is part of it. The rest is just looking at the temps while watching vids. The same 4 vids over and over and over again, and noting the range the temps go during video playback.
Screenshot-1_HalfSize1.jpg
Testing under 480p big-box in-window video playback load. Copper heat spreader on the stock cooler, with shims on the shorter chips.
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Remember, it's about looking at the temps, not trying to kill the Xu4 with a potentially inadequate cooler combination under 100% CPU load. Besides, the 'Prime test' dose not stress the GPU in the CPU, and I suspect the Video playback dose add some to an extent on the Odroid Xu4.

Yes I agree, none of the coolers I have are good enough, as I keep seeing temps over 70c (158F) with the Xu4 not even at 100% load. I am making some progress as I no longer see temps in the 80's (176F to 192F) and 90c (194F) range with only video playback. Oh, and the stock fan is not kicking on with most 480p vids now, it use to not turn off at all except at an empty desktop idling.

P.S. I don't think Android has a real 'Desktop' like Lunux and win7 and former win versions. From what I've seen on others cellphones, it is more like that impossible to use for a workstation win8/win10 abortion (a pathetic attempt of steeling the android like touch-screen interface). So yes, I'm using 'Linux', or more correctly, I'm still learning how to use Linux. I want a workstation interface, not a cellphone, lol. By the way, I do think Android is the best cellphone/tablet interface I've ever seen, to the best of my knowledge it's just not a multi-display multi-window workstation interface, there meant for completely different uses.
A computer is a Tool that is supposed to make our lives easier, not make our lives wait for the computer. - ZDG

zarcondeegrissom
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Tue Mar 22, 2016 2:32 pm

I decided to fuss around a tad more, with little progress with the temps. I took the stock heat-sink and wet sanded it with 800 wet/dry sandpaper to smooth out some of the machining grooves in it, so it would sit against the copper heat spreader a tad better. If it made a difference I would have gone to finer grit and realy polished it up.
IMG_4582crop1_width700.jpg
less groovs
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That didn't help much at all and was rather pointless. So I decided to look at just how flat the heat-sink heat spreader combo was sitting on the board. I cleaned off the bottom of the heat spreader, and put some fresh paste on the chips. I used a piece of clear plastic carefully placed on the board and set the heat-sink heat spreader combo down on top of it to force the past around under the plastic. Then when I lifted of the heat-sink heat spreader combo, I could see where the past was thick or thin, showing where the high and low spots are.
IMG_4595crop1_width700.jpg
is it flat
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Well, the CPU is not the flattest and the shims did need some minor work, however I didn't want to get things to close for a good reason. So I took off the shims and wet sanded them just a tad and tried to put them back on with fresh thermal tape. They argued quite a bit, and I gave up on the one on the power controller chip, lol.
IMG_4616crop1_width700.jpg
slightly flatter shims
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In the end, it dose not appear to have made any difference at all. Making the CPU chip a tad flatter could theoretically help, however looking at the topology of the other stuff under the heat-sink shows quite clearly why I'm not going to do that.
IMG_4649crop1_width700lbl1.jpg
That's close, realy close.
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0.1mm clearance between that capacitor and the bottom of the heat-sink is realy cutting it close, and yes I'm biting my tongue with what I want to say about that one capacitor.
IMG_4671crop1_width700.jpg
I can't do anything with that cap, and it's in my way, lol.
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So I think the shims and heat-spreader is as good as I can get them with what I have to work with. I'll pick up a few heat-sinks on the 3rd to try out, till then that's about it for now.
Last edited by zarcondeegrissom on Thu Mar 24, 2016 6:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
A computer is a Tool that is supposed to make our lives easier, not make our lives wait for the computer. - ZDG

filemoon
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by filemoon » Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:09 pm

My device is not connected to any TV and I have no "desktop" version of linux loaded (I'm using DietPi Debian distribution) - I just have different target for cooling (up to 80C in burning test and no throttle, fan could be noisy). But no fan in idle (low load) situation and temperature up to 45C.


I was able to order Swiftech heatsink from Norway - when will be delivered I will start my tests.

zarcondeegrissom
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:38 am

I had a moment of nostalgia last night as I was cutting off some wrong-location-tabs from a heat-sink. a little bit of memory lane, and a little bit of fundamentals mixed together.
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Pause cutting to look at something.
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I was using a Pentium200 heat-sink to hold down a smaller heat-sink with out warping the contact surface of the smaller heat-sink, and it dawned on me. The older heat-sink was designed to handle the same thermal load I intended to test the smaller one under. It is cool to look at how things have progressed over the years, tho it would be best if I lay them all out so you can see them better (after I lobbed off that wrong-location-tab).
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Heat-sinks over the years
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Heat-sink 1. The stock Odroid XU4 cooler with a copper heat spreader under it. As good as the ideas behind the squall cage fan like design of that heat-sink is, it honestly lacks in one of four principles of heat-sink basics. Surface area, the more surface area of the heat-sink is in contact with fresh air, the more effective it will be at conducting the heat to the air, and honestly the stock heat-sink dose not have a lot of heat-sink surface area. Given the constraints of end cost, shipping weight, and size constraints, I do think the folks at Odroid did well. It dose keep the XU4 from melting on your desk :lol:

Heat-sink 2. The chip-set test sample I diced up to try on the Odroid XU4. Well, this thing dose indeed have a lot of surface area on all them pillars. The pillars appear short enough to not have to much difficulty getting heat to the ends of the pillars even tho it is not copper. And small aluminum heat-sinks also has the advantage of not being so heavy to be a danger to a PCB if mounted properly to the PCB (It usually dose not need to be supported by the chases directly like the big ones in home entertainment amplifiers). I do have a few doubts regarding how well it will do with air flow, those pillars are kind of close together and will not do well at all with passive cooling because of air resistance thew the spaces on the heat-sink. That is one that will probably need a fan to be effective.

Heat-sink 3. Blast from the past Pentium 120MHz heat-sink. That was a 18 watt processor, however a good majority of that power went out the IO pins electrically rather then in heat (it did get hot, it just was not 18 watts of heat). The pillars on that heat-sink are much bigger then the test sample (Heat-sink 2) with plenty of space between them for airflow, allowing it to keep the processor cool with only the air moving threw the case without it's own fan. Not exactly completely passive, tho close enough. Unfortunately it is a tad big to put on the Odroid XU4 directly without a massive copper riser block, and it wont adequately handle the full heat output of the Odroid under full load, not by a long shot. The aluminum pillars are to long and thin for ample heat to make it to the ends of them, and it is lacking on surface area to be completely passive.

Heat-sink 4. Pentium200 heat-sink (missing it's dead fan). Now we are talking, this thing was made to deal with 18 watts of TDP from the old MMX processor. It's got surface area with good channels for air to be forced threw by a fan. Unfortunately, this thing is huge, and ineffective without it's fan. So I use it as a vice jig for holding other stuff I'm tinkering with, it's got a nice big flat surface on the bottom for that, lol.

Heat-sink 5. Ati9250 heat-sink. This had two issues, the foremost was the fins went the wrong way on the graphics card, so it had to go :lol: (Air went from right to left as you look at the Photo, not vertically) . The other is like the test sample, the fins are to close together to get good passive air flow between the fins, and it didn't come with a fan. The mounts do line up perfectly for the Odroud XU4, however the rest of the heat-sink is just to big in every direction to fit without being diced up. Besides, others already determined that a taller-fin version of this was just inadequate for the Odroid XU4, so it would be a wast of a good (lower watt device) heat-sink to dice it up to make it fit. Would I love to have that Blue Odroid heat-sink with a fan, YES! I've just been unable to locate one, so I'm dicing up heat-sink #2 to try instead.

A good heat-sink must have a solid thermal connection to the device it is cooling (maximum contact area with a good thermal paste/pad), or the heat-sink will simply be useless. Yes copper heat-sinks can be better then aluminum, provided there is enough width in each fin to get the heat all the way up the fin for best effectiveness of all the heat-sink surface area, that dose not imply that shorter fin aluminum heat-sinks are not effective coolers. You must have enough surface area to Conduct the heat from the heat-sink to the air passing threw the fins (the only thing I think the stock cooler lacks, aside from a heat spreader on the base for the small chips it's on ;) ). And the last is getting the hot air out of the heat-sink, the flow of air must be sufficient for the amount of heat being dissipated (it must have enough room between the fins for air to move freely or it must have a fan, and the fins must be going the correct direction for the air flowing past the heat-sink).

So, that's it for the moment of looking back in time. It was brought on by trying a mod to the PIO plug to let more air threw the stock cooler, that didn't improve temps, and noticing the bending of the Odroid PCB with it's stock cooler while measuring how far down to cut the plastic on the PIO plug.
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PIO plug mod, not worth it.
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Odroid XU4 still warped a bit
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Well, the PCB is thinner then most motherboards, so I can understand that flexing under the strain of the stock cooler springs. It would not be that bad if it was braced inside the case properly, I had the top off and it wasn't. So that prompted me to start making a backing plate to shore up the PCB around the heat-sink. While I was measuring out the plastic spacer for the backing plate, I decided the backing plate with long bolts may make it easier to try other heat-sinks on the Odroid. So after a rough idea of the backing plate was made, I started dicing up some heat-sinks to try. I'll divulge more on the backing plate in my next post, it's kind of complicated to make, and would be much better done in a proper machine shop rather then with the tools I happened to have at the moment.
(EDIT) the PCB did flatten out after a few power up to idle and shutdown cool off cycles, with just the pressure from the springs against the backing plate. So life is good.
Last edited by zarcondeegrissom on Fri Mar 25, 2016 5:21 pm, edited 4 times in total.
A computer is a Tool that is supposed to make our lives easier, not make our lives wait for the computer. - ZDG

zarcondeegrissom
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Fri Mar 25, 2016 2:19 pm

Well, at the end of the day, and to my surprise as well, it fit in the case with the exception of the bolt heads. The metal plate fit snugly against the bottom cover with the PCB exactly where it should be as well.
01_IMG_4745crop1_w700.jpg
It fits, yes!
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The enlarged vent holes in the center was done before I added the backing plate, to let some more air in to cool the bottom of the PCB. I am still a tad concerned that the backing plate may prevent to much of the PCB from getting air cooling, tho that is the trade off of these things. The concept draft looks like it will work after all, it may just take a little cleaning up by some one with better shop tools then I have.
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Lots of stuff to work around
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Well to start with, under the metal plate is two layers of thick soft plastic, that I am still working on trimming around the microscopic SMT components. It is still a work in progress as I type this. I had some other thicker stuff I was going to use, however it appeared to be building up static and attracting dust like mad, so I opted to not use it for the safety of the Odroid's electronics.
03_IMG_4705crop1_w700.jpg
needs more room under that
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I was going to go with a thick piece of plastic, with a thin insulator on top of it to protect against shorts. It turns out that three components still needed more room, So I ended up ditching that clear sheet for a second layer of the black stuff (I though I had a pic of the second black plastic layer, oh well). The second layer has a cut-out for the capacitor and the crystal next to the PMIC chip,
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Getting there
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That metal plate started out life as a FX5200GT stamped steel cooler. The fan died, so it ended up in my junk bin destined to become another experiment. I thought it would have some strength, however when I was cutting it, I discovered just how brittle it was. It's not as strong as the steel plates on motherboards for the CPU socket, however it is more then enough for the force of the springs on the other side. The idea is to brace the rather thin PCB, not provide a backing for unnecessary mounting force on the heat-sink.
05_IMG_4718crop1_w700.png
almost looks like a backing plate prototype
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So this is what the other side looks like. It's still just a concept, however I think it will be useful for holding down some experimental heat-sinks after I make a bracket to hold a fan down onto the heat-sinks with the long bolts off of the backing plate.
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:47 pm

Copper shims!

That's a great solution but really ODROID should make aluminium heatsinks that has those embossed in the aluminium bottom.

I'm a bit scared those shims might move and short something!

Maybe you could solder the shims to the heatsink bottom?!

I didn't read everything, how did you cut the shims? How thick are they?

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Fri Apr 01, 2016 5:35 pm

zarcondeegrissom wrote: Image
0.1mm clearance between that capacitor and the bottom of the heat-sink is realy cutting it close, and yes I'm biting my tongue with what I want to say about that one capacitor.
This! Did you find that the chips are not level, I'm going to solder copper shims for all 3 chips on the heatsink and I'll try to measure if there is a height difference between them first.

My only problem is how to get the shims to be flat in the first place, after you cut them from the sheet they will be all crooked!

Why aren't you using thermal paste?

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:55 pm

sorry for the delay rupy, was off fussing with other stuff.

Yes the chips are not all the same height. There is a thread from some one making an aluminum case/cooler thing, and it was discussed there.
http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=15956
23073364ti_ChrisOi_ReLbl2002.jpg
Original pic by Chris Oi, with more added.
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A, CPU is 1mm tall. B, PMIC is 0.7mm tall. Caps around the PMIC (B) are 0.9mm tall. C, USB chip-thing is 0.8mm tall. D, mystery-chip is 0.6mm tall. E1 & E2, The two chips over by the 5V DCJACK appear to be between 0.8mm to 0.7mm tall, the caps around them are taller. The cap missing in the early revision PCB is also about 0.9mm tall.

1, I though about solder, however the height of each shim will depend on the thickness of the solder between it and the heat-sink. also, if there is any gaps (air bubbles in the solder layer) at all in there, those gaps will not conduct heat as well. that's why I chose not to, it's just easier to let "Thermal compound" fill whatever gaps are between the shims and stuff, and it is not as difficult to take off to make adjustments. Believe me, I did think about that solder thing, to combine two 0.025" thick heat-spreader copper sheets to make a thicker one, in the end I chose not to, to many potentials for problems. Not to say, I only had what was on hand till the third before I could get more.

2. Making the shims flat, is not all that difficult with flat-surface pliers. It just takes a little care to work the stuff flat and not cut your fingers on the shim in the process. The shims are realy thin, unlike the much thicker Copper heat spreader. I honestly don't know how thin 'Copper flashing' is these days, it's pretty thin and flexible. And you may need to sand it down with 800+ grit (wet) sand paper to get it the correct height for each chip, depending on how the "Ball grid array" solder balls settled on your chips.

I am using past, I'm just cleaning it off every time I go to change something so I can see what's going on, then re-apply new thermal past when I put things back together. By the way, nothing other then the base of the stock Aluminum heat-sink was 'Smoothed' (not quite 'Lapped to a mirror finish), so that is the other reason I'm using that "Thermal compound". It's not just so I can easily swap out heat-sinks. As for the 'Thermal tape' holding the shims onto the chips (it was excess from a VGA memory Heat-sink kit), that is to keep the shims from sliding around, and that way gives me a flat surface to toss on any old heat-sink I happen to dice up to fit, lol.

Oh, and no, I'm not potting tape on the high-watt CPU, just the other stuff around it to hold the shims in place. The CPU is directly contacting the Heat-Spreader on the Heat-sink with a touch of Paste to fill micro-pores on the surfaces.
Last edited by zarcondeegrissom on Sat Apr 02, 2016 12:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Fri Apr 01, 2016 11:19 pm

Brief fan talk, and some bread crumbs for my self.

Noctua fan stats.
5V, 0.25watts (50mA). 4500rpm, 17.9dbA. 8.2 cubic m/hr. Max pressure 1.78 mm H2O
Possible Delta fill in (AFB0405MA-A), on order?
5V, 0.25watts (50mA). 5000rpm, 21.5dbA. 9.6 cubic m/hr (5.67 cfm). Max pressure 2.65 mm H2O

I've had that Noctua fan under some testing now, going full out all the time on 5V, and while it is quiet, it is also a bit of an under-performer (even on the stock heat-sink). First off because I don't have any extra 'Odroid XU4' fan plugs around, the stock fan is on the Odroid thermal control, and the Noctua is NOT. So given just that, when the Noctua fan is going all out and the stock fan would be off, I'm just not seeing any major improvements with temps at all. So I must assume that the stock fan can actually push way more then 8.2 cubic m/hr (4.826337 cfm), even at less then full throttle. So I've been digging around for other fans, even tho there is a list of basic information I have not been able to find on the Stock XU4 fan set up.

1) What is the maximum power a fan can safely pull from the XU4 control circuit :?: mA or watts will do.

2) How much air is the stock cooler rated to move?

3) What is this plug :?:
IMG_5007crop1w320.jpg
Stock XU4 cooler, lol.
(74.76 KiB) Downloaded 4814 times
, and where can I get a spare one?

Is this the same fan and plug (it is now, My original searching lead to the XU3 fan, not the XU4 one)? and why dose the "Buy now" button not work?
http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products ... 3934533153

Code: Select all

Please check the specification of the product that you want to purchase. ODROID products are development platform.
eh, I ordered something from Ameridroid that looks similar, Cooling Fan [0035U]. It looks close to the original stock cooler, it may possibly be spar parts :lol:

Also, I placed a order for a "CNB-S1" as the shorter "SLF-1" is honestly just not enough for this thing. The fins on the SLF-1 are shorter (less then 7mm tall without the fan), then the 10mm tall test-subject currently on my Odroid. The CNB-S1 has fins/posts about 26mm tall excluding the base (possibly a tad less), so it should be a tad better then the current test-subject. Unfortunately the CNB-S1 is less then 40 x 40 mm at the base, so it may not do any better at all.
IMG_4852w700lbl1.jpg
"Heat-sink 2" Test Subject. 10mm tall pins, 40x40mm base.
(297.34 KiB) Downloaded 4801 times
I also placed an order for the Gdstime heat-sink mentioned at the beginning of this thread. So, I have some stuff to have fun with.

B.T.W. Very good refresher vid. Electronics Thermal Heatsink Design Tutorial, EEVblog #105.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ruFVmxf0zs
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Sat Apr 02, 2016 6:25 pm

zarcondeegrissom wrote: Yes the chips are not all the same height. There is a thread from some one making an aluminum case/cooler thing, and it was discussed there.
http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=15956
Image
A, CPU is 1mm tall. B, PMIC is 0.7mm tall. Caps around the PMIC (B) are 0.9mm tall. C, USB chip-thing is 0.8mm tall. D, mystery-chip is 0.6mm tall. E1 & E2, The two chips over by the 5V DCJACK appear to be between 0.8mm to 0.7mm tall, the caps around them are taller. The cap missing in the early revision PCB is also about 0.9mm tall.
Ok, so ignoring all the smaller components that hopefully neither offer support nor get too hot:

A 1.0mm
B 0.7mm
C 0.8mm

You probably need at least 0.5 mm copper to get the rigidity to solder... so 0.5, 0.7 and 0.8 would be good, also that way I can remove the TIM (bad smelling sticker) completely.

Apparently the shims align with the border of the sink and the edge of the mounting holes on both ends for easy positioning, and really it's not that important since the clearance is pretty wide close to both components.

Interesting that they added that 0.9mm cap!? I wonder why!
Last edited by rupy on Mon Apr 04, 2016 5:56 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Sun Apr 03, 2016 5:26 am

Soldering done.

Plate A is 0.5mm
Plate C is 0.7mm
Chip B doesn't even touch the TIM!

You have to go medieval on the heat and use your gas stove largest burner full blast on the whole heatsink.

You need to scratch the heatsink alot in order for the soldering to get a grip, and I think you need to solder twice and squeeze each copper plate as you cool it down by dipping the fins of the heatsink in water (watch out for the steam) ending with the big shim!

It helps 15 degrees. Now I can run the UX4 underclocked to 1GHz without active cooling at constant 500% CPU at 75 degrees.

Disk speed to my USB3 -> SATA -> SSD goes down from 150MB/s write to 75MB/s at 1GHs, that's good enough!

I ordered a Noctua NF-A4x10 5V 40mm too... what is the fan connector on the XU4 called?

Can you buy a 3-pin -> tiny 2-pin adapter or do you have to cut the old and the new fan cables and connect them?
IMG_3126.JPG
Chip B does not touch the heatsink at all.
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IMG_3127.JPG
Small plate is 0.7mm and the large is 0.5mm
(405.54 KiB) Downloaded 4782 times
IMG_3131.JPG
After soldering, you can tell it was messy!
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:12 pm

As much as I know soldering large chunks of metal is difficult (especially "one aught" wire onto lugs), that looks very good. I would be careful tho, as the heat-sink looks like aluminum. And even at 500c, I've never managed to do better then a 'Cold solder joint' with aluminum wire. Implying just a tad bit of force will crack the seam, as the solder didn't actually bond to the aluminum, only the copper I was trying to solder to it. You can clamp or crimp stuff to aluminum wire, you can not solder to it without melting the PCB and the wire insulation first, lol.

I thought you would cut up a 40x40mm piece of copper for a 'Heat spreader' to get the heat more evenly spread out across the heat sink, and solder the shims to the Heat spreader. That way, it's easy to swap out the heat-sink without 'Welding' new shims to every one you try.

I only put the shim on the other two chips you skipped, to keep the heat-sink off the caps around them. I was looking at where the mounts were and how the heat-sink may rock if pressed near the power plug, I was not worried about cooling them. I don't think the PMIC (chip B) gets that hot either, nothing like the CPU (even tho I think the CPU gets it's power from the PMIC, it looks like an Intelligent "PWM V-reg" of sorts). The two Power protection chips by the power plug (chips E1 and E2) certainly don't. It's just the best place to 'brace' that corner of the heat-sink to form a thee-point mounting surface of a sorts. If your using smaller heat-sinks and your not handling the thing constantly, you may be fine with the two shims you got. The rest of that heat-sink certainly has enough clearance now to not worry about it if it's just sitting on a desk and left alone, lol.
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rooted » Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:16 pm

zarcondeegrissom wrote:
I thought you would cut up a 40x40mm piece of copper for a 'Heat spreader' to get the heat more evenly spread out across the heat sink, and solder the shims to the Heat spreader. That way, it's easy to swap out the heat-sink without 'Welding' new shims to every one you try.
That sounds like a great idea, or CNC a full copper sink that fit perfectly.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:17 pm

Cool, the only problem I have with adding another 0.5-0.7mm is that the mount springs will warp the PCB even more than before... would probably have to replace those too... I re-soldered the shims alot... aaaaaalot, it took me a while to figure out how much raw aluminium (non oxidized, non anodized) you need to expose and how much heat you need = alot (but not too much); as a guide the flux should catch fire and become brown but not black (then it's too hot) I think I lucked out on my kitchen stove providing the right temperature and grinding the aluminium enough eventually.

Basically if the shims can be thermal pasted to the dies and then removed again without snapping I would say it's good enough for the purpose which is to conduct heat while being squeezed in the "right" direction.

I don't look forward to doing this again, but next time it will be easier. And really this was just a prototype to show ODROID how to mill their aluminium heatsinks. The thermal paste makes sure no components will be touched unless the soldering breaks, which can't happen if ODROID mills the heatsink like this in aluminium. All copper sounds a bit heavy/expensive.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Tue Apr 05, 2016 3:05 am

Further up the page, in the Backing-plate photos, is one with the stock cooler held on with bolts. I took the plastic-cup-things and the springs off the stock cooler clips, and used them between the nuts and the heat-sink tabs. Spring first, then the cup over it as a washer of sorts, then the nuts (it's what I had here at the time, lol).
03_IMG_4724crop700_001.jpg
Springs are from the stock cooler.
(273.35 KiB) Downloaded 4720 times
The PCB is thinner then most PC boards that have heat-sinks mounted to them, so the XU4 dose bend under force. That's kind of bad, as the board bends, the chips become less flat against the heat-sink, and you loose heat transfer contact area.

B.T.W. The bolts were leftovers from an 80mm fan kit, and appear to be realy close to #4-32 or #5-32 size/thread possibly. #6-32 bolts are to big to fit threw the holes by a fraction of a mm, and the only other bolts I have here are #8-32 that are just pointless to try, lol.
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Wed Apr 06, 2016 12:15 am

Ok, well with the new fan at lowest speed:

echo 0 > /sys/devices/odroid_fan.13/fan_mode
echo 20 > /sys/devices/odroid_fan.13/pwm_duty # below 20 it doesn't start if you stop it.

The XU4 is completely silent and can run with underclocking at 800% CPU around 60 degrees.

I'm still undecided as to whether I'll actually use this as loadbalancer, it's not as stable as the Raspberry Pi 2's that I use as cluster nodes.

My backup is Intel NUC with passive cooling case: http://host.rupy.se/balancer.jpg

BTW, new untested Orange Pi One cluster nodes: http://host.rupy.se/orange.jpg
odroid.jpg
(343.7 KiB) Downloaded 4693 times

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by Ameridroid » Wed Apr 27, 2016 8:24 am

We've updated our XU4 alternative cooling tests by releasing a new video showing the difference between the XU4 default active cooler, the Shapedmedia passive case, a Northbridge passive cooler, and a Northbridge passive cooler with a 120mm case fan running nearby. You can watch the results with hard data at https://youtu.be/CQ_GIH9DEu0

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rooted » Wed Apr 27, 2016 9:56 am

Ameridroid wrote:We've updated our XU4 alternative cooling tests by releasing a new video showing the difference between the XU4 default active cooler, the Shapedmedia passive case, a Northbridge passive cooler, and a Northbridge passive cooler with a 120mm case fan running nearby. You can watch the results with hard data at https://youtu.be/CQ_GIH9DEu0
Good work, the passive case is better than I thought.

By limiting the A15 cores top speed and using a passive heatsink I have exceeded the stock xu4 performance. Silence is golden.

By changing the trip points in the kernel and recompiling you can far exceed the stock performance using any of your test setups since throttling happens so soon and knocks the CPU all the way down to 800mhz by default.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by fkaplan » Thu Apr 28, 2016 3:15 am

Regarding Raymond Day's post:
"Replaced the small fan on my Odroid-XU4 with this one "Gdstime Aluminum Heatsink for Computer Northbridge Cooler Cooling" got it from http://amzn.com/B00ZRDRX8M I had put the fan back on this new one up-side-down so it would fit. But I have not herd the fan come on yet. Took the thermal interface material off the heatsink that came with it and used it on this new one. It warped the fan a little but still spins. Tested it by hand. Before the fan would come on about every 5 min. for about 5 sec. With it just sitting there doing nothing. Happy this fix that. Can't fit in in the case any more. Could Cut a hole in the top of the case to fit it my do that later. Got Max2Play running on this."

How did you remove the heat sink to replace? I have an Odroid XU3 and after unscrewing the screws, I tried to pull it up. It did not move and I was scared to apply more force.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by Ameridroid » Sat Apr 30, 2016 9:43 am

The easiest way to remove the heatsink is to use a retractable ballpoint pen. Remove the ink portion of the pen and then use the hole on the writing end of the pen to push the retaining clips through the holes on the XU3. Once they snap through, carefully rotate them from the other side while pulling on them, and they should come free.

Next, disconnect the power from the fan.

Lastly, slowly pull the heatsink and fan away from the XU3. It will take some force as the thermal interface is adhesive. We normally rock the heatsink back and forth while pulling on it.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Wed May 11, 2016 12:36 am

Ok, fair warning the fan connector now has a too good hook:

Edit: I think the plastic is the problem, it's too soft!

Took me 30 mins of prying and wearing the hook edge with a tiny screwdriver to get it out!?

If you are going to install another fan just cut the leads immediately instead of removing the connector.

What is the fan connector called and/or where can I buy a new one?

Edit: I bought this. Fingers crossed.

Edit2: The above connector is the right one!
hook.jpg
Good Hook = Bad Connector
(432.66 KiB) Downloaded 4397 times
Last edited by rupy on Tue May 31, 2016 1:07 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by odroid » Wed May 11, 2016 9:37 am

Oh.. :o
The connector should be compatible with Molex 51021-0200 / 1.25mm pitch.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rupy » Wed May 11, 2016 11:58 pm

Ok, final update I think:

I managed to find the right molex in a RC hobby store for 6$:
IMG_3196.jpg
Took the connector from a tiny RC motor.
(246.75 KiB) Downloaded 4374 times
And I followed @zarcondeegrissom advice and it's indeed the best way to go:
IMG_3197.jpg
zarcondeegrissom was right, this is the best way to fix the heatsink problem.
(245.64 KiB) Downloaded 4374 times
Odroid XU-4 the completely silent and still performant way!

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by Raymond Day » Sun May 15, 2016 10:19 pm

Did you see this nice video of the XU4 test with different heat sinks?

From that video I did a "apt install sysbench" and made the same script.

Code: Select all

root@odroid-xu4-3:~# cat sysbench.sh
sysbench --test=cpu --cpu-max-prime=100000 --num-threads=8 run

root@odroid-xu4-3:~#
But I don't know how to get the same sec. to sec. List he did on the video. Is there some other script? That is a very good one to test a heat sink. If any one can get it to it not to throttle down then it could run it's fastest all the time. This would tell you that.

Maybe a heat sink on the bottom is good too. I felt mine and it does seem to get a little hot on the bottom.

-Raymond Day

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by Raymond Day » Sun May 15, 2016 10:45 pm

Read on the comments of that video and it shows how.
+kicker22004 We used Rebol3 for ARM (http://rebol.com available in the downloads section). Here is the script we used to collect the temperature and frequency data:

REBOL []

echo %temp-mon.log
print "STARTED"
forever [
out: form (load %/sys/devices/virtual/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp) / 1000
append out "^-"
for i 0 7 1 [
append out (load rejoin [%/sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu i %/cpufreq/cpuinfo_cur_freq]) / 1000000
append out "^-"
]
print replace/all out "^/" ""
wait 1
]

...and here is the sysbench command:

sysbench --test=cpu --cpu-max-prime=100000 --num-threads=8 run
Seems to hard to do at the link for rebol. I downloaded a "r3-linux-armhf-g25033f8" if that is the right one what do I do with it?

About all on this "XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)" should run this and see if the XU4 auto throttle down. If it stays up 100% you know you have a super cooling system on yours.

-Raymond Day

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by Ameridroid » Tue May 17, 2016 4:19 am

Here are the graphs of our test results with different coolers: http://video.respectech.com:8080/log/results.html

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Sat May 21, 2016 8:22 am

odroid wrote:Oh.. :o
The connector should be compatible with Molex 51021-0200 / 1.25mm pitch.
Trap for new players, and the forgetful. I ordered a few plugs from an electronics parts distributor, and when they arrived, I felt like an idiot. When you order plugs, they don't always include the metal pieces that go in the plastic (or vice versa). Honestly, I just don't feel like decoding the Molex website to figure out what metal parts go into the plastic bits I received, it was easier for Thomas Young to decipher Egyptian hieroglyphs back in the day, lol.
IMG_7286crop2_FanAndPlugs_001.jpg
Plugs need the rest of it, and the plug on fan was better. lol.
(337.1 KiB) Downloaded 4262 times
Worry not. The XU4 cooler from AmeriDroid, was the correct thing, and the plug was the correct one. Cooling Fan [0035U]
http://ameridroid.com/products/cooling-fan
I just got a chance to splice on a normal 0.1-inch plug to the end of the cut off cooler plug, and it appears to be working well.
IMG_7168crop1_FanAdaptor1.jpg
A fit-test for now.
(69.53 KiB) Downloaded 4262 times
I will hot-snot it to keep things apart, tho I think I want to put an LED on it first. Nothing flash-burn capable, just a little dim red light to let me know it wants more cooling, lol. The new black fan is kind of difficult to see when it is spinning, plus for when I have the fan plugged in elsewhere when testing, etc.

P.S. Rupy, That is some good look'n copper work there, fantastic. There are many plugs that are not meant to be taken apart, like the 12V plugs for motherboards.
IMG_5484qs_I_Hate_These_Connectors.jpg
If only the wire was copper, my hands would have less scars on them, lol.
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I, hate, those plugs. Especially when I can't solder directly to the wires because the wire is aluminum. lol.
(EDIT)
Here is the final draft of my 'Fan Adapter' idea.
IMG_7291qs_OdroidFanAdapter_FD001.jpg
'Fan Adapter' idea.
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The LED was scavenged form a dead set of powered PC speakers, with a 330 ohm resistor put in series with it. So that decreases what is available for the fan by about 11mA, tho given the Delta ( "AFB0405MA-A" ) I have now only draws 100mA vs the stock cooler's 120mA, it shouldn't damage anything, I hope. The fan dose not produce obnoxious tones, it dose move a bit of air, so there is a hint of air flow white noise at full speed, tho not as loud as the stock fan.
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by zarcondeegrissom » Tue May 24, 2016 8:10 am

one more note as I sit here and swelter today (82.9F, 28.27778c, 51% humidity), lol. sloppy mounts vs the back of the power plug.
IMG_7295crop1w700.jpg
led test without fan, I know it's off by one pin.
(241.28 KiB) Downloaded 4238 times
That Gdstime heat sink has mounts that allow quite a bit of horizontal slop for a lack of better words, lol. So I thought it would be prudent to put a piece of plastic between the back of the power plug and the heat sink to keep the heat sink in place, and to prevent the heat sink from killing the power supply.

Oh do I have thoughts about this heat sink, and the Zalman used in that Ameridroid vid (good vid by the way). For now I'm running the Gdstime with the stock coating on the bottom of the heat sink. I have doubts about the ability of the 'anodized' coating regarding conduction of heat (not to be confused with the radiation or emissivity). I never gave the Zalmans that I have a chance, I lapped the coating off of the basses of them before using them (all of them) on my motherboards and GPUs.
a_zalman_north_bridge_heat_sink_blue_nb47j_lg_pic.jpg
ZM-NB47J mount example, for ref only.
(8.19 KiB) Downloaded 4238 times
The Zalmans (ZM-NB47J) are good heat sinks, especially when there in the airflow of an intake fan on the front of a computer. The uneven tops do make it difficult to mount smaller fans. On the plus side, the mounts are shaped a bit like a hook, so it can be mounted straight or at 90 degrees to the MX440-style mount holes of most chip-sets. For the Odroid, it allows the thickest part of the cooler base to put directly on top of the Arm chip.
IMG_7280w700_Gdstime_OnlyMountOrientation.jpg
Ah yea, It needs to go the other way, and it can't.
(307.64 KiB) Downloaded 4238 times
The Gdstime on the other hand has straight mount things, that prevent it from being mounted at 90 degrees from how it is in that pic. And the Zalman things will not work on the Gdstime. So honestly, I don't dare try it without a copper heat spreader under it.
IMG_7348crop1w699.jpg
Ah yea, that mount wont go any other way there.
(355.28 KiB) Downloaded 4236 times
The channels that the mount things go into are directly on top of the CPU, so the heat has to travel horizontally to the center of the heat sink before it can go up to the fins. I am not in the least bit happy with that arrangement, and it doesn't perform much better at all then the former chip-set cooler (top left in that pic) that I've been using for the past month. I have doubts that lapping the anodized coating off the base will do much at all, given the limitation of the mounting hardware. I'm going to take it off and redo the thermal compound, because I put a large amount on there and I don't see any squirting out the sides, I'm not expecting much improvement tho. The base is not even close to flat, I've seen car wrecks from Mythbusters experiments with flatter parts then the base of the Gdstime heat sink. lol.

FYI. Both the Gdstime and the Zalman heatsinks are anodized aluminum. I am not using any of them without a copper lug in the chipset/GPU or a Copper Heat-spreader on the Odroid XU4, for many reasons.

(EDIT)
I put the Gdstime in the Vice of pain and got it a tad bit flatter, and properly filled the divots with lots of thermal goo. It appears to be working better now.
IMG_7366crop1w700.jpg
Gdstime with more thermal goo.
(241.89 KiB) Downloaded 4231 times
Room, temp 77.5 (25.27778c). Idle at the desktop is now at 39c to 42c, it was much higher 44c or up... Youtube Playback still is not fantastic 48c out into the 60's with 360p video playback. Archangel at 360p ranged from 58c to multiple spikes at 68c, and the fan did kick in at about 1:50 into the cinematic. So over all, not to bad, with copper shims and a copper heat spreader under it. To quote Photonicinduction, "I want more!", lol.
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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rooted » Wed May 25, 2016 1:48 pm

I get great passive performance by limiting the big cores to 1.6 and setting the governor to interactive.

Ambient temperature: 26°C

Code: Select all

odroid@xu4:~$ uptime
 23:51:59 up  7:07,  2 users,  load average: 0.59, 0.61, 0.56
odroid@xu4:~$ temp
58000

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by gtj » Thu Jun 02, 2016 4:47 am

Has anyone tried Spapedmedia aluminium case? I'm seriously considering getting one as the fan emits too much noise.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by Ameridroid » Fri Jun 03, 2016 12:05 am

Check out these videos for details on the Shapedmedia cases and performance tests:

https://youtu.be/q7_ZCHpAngo
https://youtu.be/GvqoWKBJDsA

And Shapedmedia vs. other cooling option tests here:

http://video.respectech.com:8080/log/results.html

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by gtj » Sat Jun 11, 2016 7:12 pm

Hello all,

I have installed set CPU with the hope to be able to downclock the board and run it at a maximum clock speed of 1200Mhz. I have successfully set maximum and minimum clock frequency as I verified it with CPU-Z, however, XU4 after every boot ''forgets'' that SET CPU setting and returns to normal clock range. (Please note I have ticked the ''set on boot'' box). Any thoughts?

Please note I removed the stock fan and heat sink and installed the anodised aluminum case by Shapedmedia. With the clock settings set at maximum 1200Mhz, I get 71 degrees C max (65-71) which is very good considering that my XU4 runs 24/7 as a server for Tinycam Monitor. However, if rebooted for any reason (due to power outage for eg) it restarts in full speed and runs for a couple or three minutes, until it tops at 115 degrees and eventually crashes. As I want to prevent this, I have to find a way to run it at 1200Mhz permanently. Performance is perfectly adequate for me at that speed.

I also wanted to ask, has anyone rated the consumption of the stock fan? is it a 5v fan?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rooted » Sat Jun 11, 2016 7:49 pm

SetCPU was abandoned long ago, use a different application such as:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... neladiutor

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by gtj » Sat Jun 11, 2016 10:01 pm

rooted wrote:SetCPU was abandoned long ago, use a different application such as:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... neladiutor
Will try it as soon as I get home and will post back my findings. Thanks a bunch!

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by gtj » Sat Jun 11, 2016 10:04 pm

rooted wrote:SetCPU was abandoned long ago, use a different application such as:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... neladiutor
May I ask something a bit off topic?
As I see you got both XU4 and C2, how big is roughly the performance difference between these 2?

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rooted » Sat Jun 11, 2016 10:17 pm

gtj wrote:
rooted wrote:SetCPU was abandoned long ago, use a different application such as:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... neladiutor
May I ask something a bit off topic?
As I see you got both XU4 and C2, how big is roughly the performance difference between these 2?
The XU4 has about 30-35% more CPU performance.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by gtj » Sun Jun 12, 2016 3:12 am

rooted wrote:
gtj wrote:
rooted wrote:SetCPU was abandoned long ago, use a different application such as:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... neladiutor
May I ask something a bit off topic?
As I see you got both XU4 and C2, how big is roughly the performance difference between these 2?
The XU4 has about 30-35% more CPU performance.
Right. I see. This means it is considerably more powerful.

As for adiutor, I confirm, it works! I got to set the frequency range to the desired numbers! Thanks!

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by gtj » Mon Jun 13, 2016 11:14 pm

Could anyone please let me know what is considered to be a good temperature range for a XU4 receiving server duty?

Mine runs 24/7 with a range between 58-64.

Many thanks.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by DarkBahamut » Tue Jun 14, 2016 6:49 am

I would say that's a perfectly fine temperature to be running. The chip is safe up to some very high temperatures (well over 100C) but for 24/7 running I'd probably aim to stay under 85C, though I doubt it would be much of a concern with running right up to the 95c throttle point.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by gtj » Tue Jun 14, 2016 8:33 pm

DarkBahamut wrote:I would say that's a perfectly fine temperature to be running. The chip is safe up to some very high temperatures (well over 100C) but for 24/7 running I'd probably aim to stay under 85C, though I doubt it would be much of a concern with running right up to the 95c throttle point.

Excellent info. That was exactly what I was looking for! Many thanks

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by stmicro » Fri Jun 24, 2016 6:20 pm

When will Ameridroid start to sell this quiet cooler?
Image
https://www.hardkernel.com/shop/40-x-40 ... heat-sink/

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by Ameridroid » Sat Jun 25, 2016 8:08 am

We should have these before the end of June.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rooted » Sat Jun 25, 2016 10:40 am

It's been great on my XU4, been running it and underclocking the big cores to 1.6ghz for months.

Sent from my SM-G900T

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by mad_ady » Sat Jun 25, 2016 10:19 pm

@rooted: Do you run completely passive cooling, or do you have a standby fan? Also, it couldn't be mounted on a c1/c2, right?

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by rooted » Mon Jun 27, 2016 12:17 pm

mad_ady wrote:@rooted: Do you run completely passive cooling, or do you have a standby fan? Also, it couldn't be mounted on a c1/c2, right?
Completely passive. You would have to cut it a bit but it can fit a C2, someone else that already has one did just that.

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by ronaldlees » Mon Jul 11, 2016 10:48 pm

glenenglish wrote:So here is what I did. The fan never runs for 20deg C ambient, Even with sustained heavy load of all the NEON units of the 4 x BIG cores. (clock = 1800MHz)
The box (pictured) gets warm- that is what we want.

I am using Bergquist GAPPAD VO ULTRASOFT. I have 2mm and 1.5mm in stock.
I mount the board on 4 x M3 x 5mm high standoffs. 4mm would be better but there is insufficient clearance to the fan pegs
I use 2 x 2mm and 1 x 1.5mm thick GAPPAD (5.5mm) total.

The GAPPAD MUST have some compression/pressure for it to work. This is a tenuous requirement because the XU PCBs are very thin and if one is not careful the deformation of the pcb will break things. . For more serious applications, I would have alot of screws around the compression area , AND/OR pressure from above (usually from the lid of the box ).

The 5.5mm stack of gappad was about 5.8mm high, so I added a single set of M3 flat washers underneath as to make the PCB stand off about 5.3mm.
Just enough to get a very slight squash.
Pushing down on the middle of the board will produce sufficient compression, do it evenly and slowly.

ODROID- suggest some more room around the middle fan-attachment pin so that I can not use the fan, but put an additional standoff and hold down nut& bolt - to fit a nut on top - M2.5 or M2 would be fine (but M2 would required smaller hole). ALso needs clearance underneath to sit on the standoff. ground is ok- doesn't have to be ground isolated.
gappad.jpg
box.jpg
I think the fan needs to cool the CV/CC supply you're using! There's no heat sink on it, so I'd think it would get very hot! Does it? I have some similar supplies, but I never use them for so much current as the XU4 draws. I use heatsinked DC-DC converter instead. Maybe your unit is better than mine :-)

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by CatalinM » Tue Jul 26, 2016 12:30 am

Facing the same issue, I searched the internet and came up with the following (theoretical as of yet) solution:
- a thick copper plate to cover the all the chipsets (http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KSoAAOxy0 ... -l1600.jpg) - this is 42x42x12mm pure copper - might require trimming as the stock heatsink is 40x40
- some raspberry pi mini heatsinks, to help dissipate heat from the copper plate (https://www.rootusers.com/wp-content/up ... tsinks.jpg) - I already have a set, but I'm trying to source more in order to build a proper large heatsink
- (optional) - copper piping to help spread heat to the outer case panel

On the bottom, I would try some GapPad or similar material, to interface with the case panel.

Opinions on this idea?

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Re: XU4 heatsink without cooler (or low noise)

Unread post by TeHashX » Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:25 am


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