3D Printer thread anybody?

[L67GS]

I've found on larger PETG prints blue tape is superior in preventing any edge curl or warping versus glue stick (aka PVA) and when a PLA print has minimal build plate contact such as items with many small details.

In any case if you do run into a material or print where PVA isn't quite cutting it give the tape a shot, it's good stuff. A lot of people like using hairspray (plain unscented aquanet is good) on glass and it does work well, although I don't like having to remove the glass to respray and I'm not covering my desk in it.

Maybe I'll try it when I print these out

rocket2.png (19.1 KiB) Viewed 214 times

rocket.png (42.1 KiB) Viewed 214 times

[rooted]

That's a perfect example of what I meant but I bet PVA will hold it, nice design. Don't forget the supports

[L67GS]

Finally got to align some stuff. The bridge was riding 0.010" lower on one end. One of my ballscrews has 0.008" of wobble. I have to bring a few things home from my shop to tweak it.
The industry standard of allowing all the weight to rest on the stepper motors seems like a terrible design flaw, but it doesn't seem to shorten the stepper motors lifespan.

[hominoid]

I'm not sure what 3d printer design would divert bearing the weight by the steppers yet still be adjustable by them. It would certainly be a more complex design. I don't ever recall seeing a design were the z-axis steppers don't bear the weight. As long as the weight is within the maximum load of the steppers, I don't think it will be a problem. I ran about 8 years on the same set of steppers and they showed no sign of wear and were regularly used. The only reason I changed them at the last upgrade was to get better ones that were also high temp rated(180c).

[rooted]

Look at single Z printers such as the Ender 3, all the weight rests on a single stepper and they last for years without issue.

[L67GS]

I got tuned mechanically, even my ball screws are at +/- 0.002" now. Also started playing with slicer settings and learning more about them. I made a simple bookend with integrated pen holder in FreeCAD the other day and have been making bookends to test my settings. The bookend has some large flat areas, inside and outside curves, fillets and chamfers, and some tight inside corners so it;s been a great test print. Best of all, even an ugly bookend is still a bookend and we have a couple of hundred books in my Electrical room at work that could be more easily accessible were they not stacked funny.
SuperSlicer has some test prints and I've been watching different videos about how to use them so I'll spend a day soon printing them and making adjustments as well.

bookend.png (30.27 KiB) Viewed 138 times

[L67GS]

It took me nearly 3 weeks, and I had to make a simple one to get it, but I made my first curved item in FreeCAD. Not to be confused with rounded items, that came the first day.

FirstCurve.png (42.59 KiB) Viewed 119 times

[rooted]

Yeah that's more difficult, I actually don't know how in FreeCAD unless you can revolve a curve.

[L67GS]

This locking extension cord rack for my box looks crooked, that's a perspective illusion though, it's perfect.
However, the items I wanted a printer for continue to elude me.
I've made nearly a dozen small (like 10mm) bellows in TPU and none of them have been suitable for use as an actuator in any way.
With much slicer tinkering I can print TPU air-tight as thin as 1/2 mm (my printer is awesome) and have tried two rolls of filament from different manufacturers but still nothing worthwhile.
I'm currently on my 3rd design so hopefully it's just a matter of engineering. The funny thing is, my last failed actuator looks great and moves easily by hand.

20230209_191528.jpg (504.29 KiB) Viewed 65 times

[L67GS]

Just had a moment of clarity, I had trouble cutting the faceplate for my Candice project from ABS sheet (always looks asymmetrical).
I now have the tech to create in plastic with unparalleled symmetry. I guess it's time to order white filament.

[hominoid]

Nothing like starting with a very difficult task, 3d printed working bellows would be a challenge for the most experienced person. Are they too stiff or coming apart?

[L67GS]

Nothing like starting with a very difficult task, 3d printed working bellows would be a challenge for the most experienced person. Are they too stiff or coming apart?

Too stiff, even at 1/2 mm.

[L67GS]

I finally got 20* of movement on a joint! I should be approaching 90* on the next one after learning from this one.

[rooted]

I finally got 20* of movement on a joint! I should be approaching 90* on the next one after learning from this one.

If you need a lot of flex why not get some ninjaflex filament? It's extremely flexible and worth the additional cost.

[L67GS]

It's 3X as much and if this experiment works I want to make many of them in increasing complexity.

[rooted]

It's also 3x more flexible

I understand, if using a lot of filament the price increase doesn't work in your case

[L67GS]

Finally had good proof of concept, the one that did 20* did 90* at work with more air pressure. I have my next design in the works and am expecting at least 50% more efficiency.