RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via IR)

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RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via IR)

Unread postby infinity85 » Fri Jun 10, 2016 1:29 am

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Updated on 26 April 2017: Changes in LibreELEC 8 --> Check bottom of this post for changes/advises
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi there!
I wanted to introduce the RemotePi Board from MSLdigital.com, which can be made compatible with Odroid C2 now, if you follow this guide.

Credits
At first I wanted to thank some users who helped me to sort out issues:
- Thank you Tpimp, who solved my first GPIO problems by suggesting not to use pins 8 and 10 because of UART conflict.
- And thank you very very much joerg for finally solving the power cut-off issue by pointing me to use pin 26, which is the only with actual default state 0.
- Also many thanks to Matt from MSL Digital Solutions for his patience and for providing all necessary information (especially to figure out why RemotePi Board did not cut off thr power after successful safe shutdown)


What is this board for?

Well, for those who use their Odroid or Raspberry Pi as a Media Center device this board provides an IR receiver and a power circuit as well as a power button:

  • You can power on and off your Odroid completely via arbitrary IR signal (possible to learn power toggle, as well as discrete on and off commands)
  • Also you can just push the power button for safe shutdown and boot
  • Hence RemotePi Board is responsible for standby mode (draws only some negligible mW while Odroid is completely off)
  • Safe shutdown (scripts provided by msldigital support page)
  • The board powers your Odroid through GPIO, so you'll have to plug your micro-usb power adapter into the RemotePi Board instead of Odroid
As there is no official support yet, I thought I'll give it a try and managed to make it working with some help of those guys mentioned above.

===================================================




Quick overview

    I. Is it plug and play? (Major compatibility issues to be solved or mentioned)
    II. Rewiring/Repinning GPIO connection
    III. Shutdownscripts
    IV. Using RemotePi Board IR-Receiver (general GPIO IR-Receiver) instead of Odroid onboard IR-Receiver in LibreELEC

-----------------------------------------------------------------------


I. Is it plug and play? (Major compatibility issues to be solved or mentioned)

Speaking for my RemotePi board 2015 (for Pi2) with external IR and LED (for placing IR and LED in custom cases or so)... Quick answer: NO, but... :)
  • It does not fit directly onto J2 GPIO header because the Odroids heatsink is interfering with some parts marked red in following picture:
    interfering-parts.gif
    interfering-parts.gif (71.5 KiB) Viewed 892 times
  • To connect it somehow to the Odroid you'll need wires instead of just putting it ontop (as originally meant for RPi2) to avoid interfering with heatsink. But wachout for the cables diameter for those 4 Pins for 5V and GROUND, as the current could be up to 2A (RemotePi Board for RPi2) or even 2.6A (RemotePi Board for RPi3). Obviously this depends on how many USB devices you connect to your Odroid. And you will need wires in any case, because you must rewire some pins.
  • The RemotePi GPIO pins 8 and 10 need to be connected to different ones on the Odroid C2, because there seem to be some conflict right now (UART interface occupies those apparently and Odroids default state (1=high on Pin 8) is also not what RemotePi expects (GPIO must go into default 0=low for cutting power after shutdown). But as you need to use cables anyway for connecting the RemotePi, this is not a big deal anymore (just repinning the cables to other GPIO pins).
  • As we bypass Odroids power-circuit via powering it through GPIO, the odroids 2.5/2.6Amp over-current protection is also bypassed. Don't worry! RemotePi has also a over-current protection which should ideally match the same value. It does match it since RemotePi Board for Pi3 but in my case (RPi 2 version) it is only 2Amp. Though, this is fine, as the value is lower than Odroids ~2.6Amp, thus RemotePis polyfuse would trigger earlier if I attach too many non externally powered USB drives (which is not a good idea on a SBC anyway). In short: A RemotePi Board for Pi3 would be the best choice ;)
  • As a result of not using the UART pins for getting it to work, the RemotePi's firmware can't be configured I guess. In fact I've never made use of this feature. But if it will be necessary to configure or update the firmware, I guess you would need to rewire RemotePi Pins 8 and 10 back again to Odroids 8 and 10 for the time of firmwareupdate and back again for daily use. Or perhaps you own a Raspberry Pi and put RemotePi ontop for firmware-update purposes
This sounds like a lot of trouble... but actually it's only extending the header-connection and changing one line in the main script (and 2 lines in another script if you make use of it)


II. Rewiring/Repinning GPIO connection

As the RemotePi is originally designed for a Raspberry Pi, it is unfortunately not just plug and play. You'll need to rewire two pins (besides using wires for all pins anyway):

GPIO-Rewiring.gif
GPIO-Rewiring.gif (174.85 KiB) Viewed 892 times


The picture above should be selfexplaining. But just for the sake of completeness:
  • Rewire RemotePi PIN 8 to Odroid-C2 PIN 26
  • Rewire RemotePi PIN 10 to Odroid-C2 PIN 7

Remarks:

  • If you don't want to use the RemotePi Board IR-Receiver for remote controlling LibreELEC, then pin 12 can be left disconnected. The board will still power on and off via learned IR remote control commands, but controlling LibreELEC GUI will be taken over by Odroids built-in IR-Receiver.
  • But if you have bought a RemotePi board with external LED and IR-Receiver, you may have chosen this for placing it somewhere in a custom case, so the built-in receiver might be hidden and useless. Then you can deactivate the Odroid IR in favour of the external GPIO-IR receiver on RemotePi Board. In this case you'll have to connect pin 12 obviously.
  • How to switch to GPIO-IR receiver in LibreELEC is described in my mini guide here



III. Shutdownscripts for safe shutdown and automatic power cut-off (LibreELEC)

These two scripts can be found (for OpenELEC on Raspberry Pi) at msldigitals support page.
Also there is a guide how to apply these scripts as well as other OS-dependent to e.g. OpenELEC/LibreELEC, RasPlex, OSMC, XBian, Volumio, RuneAudio etc.

  1. irswitch.sh: This script is for safe shutdown via IR-Remote and push-button (quasi external event). After pushing the button, the system will shutdown safely, then RemotePi will wait for the GPIO225 becoming state 0 (low), which comes after a successful system safe shutdown and finally it will cut the power completely.
  2. shutdown.sh: This script is for safe shutdown via program interface or script (quasi internal event). After navigating to the power-off button in GUI, the system will shutdown safely, then RemotePi will wait for the GPIO225 becoming state 0 (low), which comes after a successful and safe system shutdown and then it will finally cut the power completely.

Here are my Odroid compatible adaptions for LibreELEC/OpenELEC:

irswitch.sh (quasi external event from IR or push-button):
just change original msldigital script GPIOpin1=14 to GPIOpin1=225. See here at msldigital for original script and installation instructions
Code: Select all
#!/bin/bash
# prevent restarting XBMC at shutdown. This is only used for OpenElec before V5
LOCKDIR="/var/lock/"
LOCKFILE="xbmc.disabled"
# this is the GPIO pin receiving the shut-down signal
# Raspberry Pi pin8: GPIOpin1=14; Odroid-C2 pin26: GPIOpin1=225
GPIOpin1=225
# functions
add_omit_pids() {
omit_pids="$omit_pids -o $1"
}
safe_shutdown () {
# for OpenElec before V5
touch "$LOCKDIR/$LOCKFILE"
# for OpenElec V5 and later
systemctl stop kodi
add_omit_pids $(pidof connmand)
add_omit_pids $(pidof dbus-daemon)
killall5 -15 $omit_pids
for seq in `seq 1 10` ; do
usleep 500000
clear > /dev/tty1
killall5 -18 $omit_pids || break
done
sync
umount -a >/dev/null 2>&1
poweroff -f
}

echo "$GPIOpin1" > /sys/class/gpio/export
echo "in" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
while true; do
  sleep 1
  power=$(cat /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value)
  if [ $power != 0 ]; then
    echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
    echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value
    sleep 3
    safe_shutdown
  fi
done




shutdown.sh (quasi internal event out of program or script in GUI):
just change GPIOpin=15 to GPIOpin=249 and GPIOpin1=14 to GPIOpin1=225. See here at msldigital for original script and installation instructions
Code: Select all
#!/bin/bash
if [ "$1" != "reboot" ]; then
# Raspberry Pi pin10: GPIOpin=15; Odroid-C2 pin7: GPIOpin=249
  GPIOpin=249
# Raspberry Pi pin8: GPIOpin1=14; Odroid-C2 pin26: GPIOpin1=225
  GPIOpin1=225
  echo "$GPIOpin" > /sys/class/gpio/export
  # execute shutdown sequence on pin
  echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/direction
  echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
  usleep 125000
  echo "0" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
  usleep 200000
  echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
  usleep 400000
  echo "0" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
  # set GPIO 14 high to feedback shutdown to RemotePi Board
  # because the irswitch.sh has already been terminated
  echo "$GPIOpin1" > /sys/class/gpio/export
  echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
  echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value
  usleep 4000000
fi


Remark to shutdown.sh:
This script is useful if you e.g. sometimes use Yatse or Kore android remote apps or hotkeys to shutdown your Media Center. Those shutdown commands equal internal events similar to navigating to kodi shutdown menu. Without using this second script the system would safely shutdown, but the RemotePi Board would not get any indication to monitor GPIO225, thus it would not cut-off power after successful shutdown.


IV. Using RemotePi Board IR-Receiver (general GPIO IR-Receiver) instead of Odroid onboard IR-Receiver in LibreELEC

If you want to use the RemotePIs IR-Receiver instead of the onboard Odroid IR-Receiver you'll have to deactivate the built-in IR and activate GPIO IR Receiver:

___________________________________________________________________________________
###Update 26 April 2017: Changes in LibreELEC 8

As of LibreELEC Krypton, there have been some changes in LibreELEC that need to be addressed:
  1. GPIO IR Pin 12 (GPIO238) is occupied somehow internally, so this cannot be used anymore. Solution:
    • Rewire the RemotePi Board Pin 12 to Odroid Pin 11 (GPIO247)
    • That also involves changing the ir related modprobe line
      options gpioplug-ir-recv gpio_nr=238 active_low=1 to
      options gpioplug-ir-recv gpio_nr=247 active_low=1
  2. Some power saving advice: There has been a little discovery/discussion some months ago that idle power consumption varies on Odroid C2. Turned out: if you pull off the J1 jumper (OTG Powering --> disabled), the Odroid will consume noticably less power and run cooler: viewtopic.php?f=139&t=25431#p175531
    • Since Odroid is not powered through its onboard microUSB (OTG) plug, when powered through the RemotePi Board, you can pull off this jumper to save some energy and to run your C2 some degrees cooler.
Last edited by infinity85 on Wed Apr 26, 2017 8:19 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby joerg » Fri Jun 10, 2016 3:22 am

Very, very well documented. Thank you.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby odroid » Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:54 am

Great instruction !
Thank you for sharing.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:08 pm

Hi All,

thanks for this guide, I'm very interested to connect the RemotePi board to my oDroid-C2, because I use it for years with my pi2 and will never miss it...
I'm sure I can connect it with your guide, but I'm not sure how to fix it in a case! Have you any hints, maybe you guys can take pictures of your (selfmade) cases!

Thanks,
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby rooted » Mon Jan 23, 2017 12:51 am

Thanks for the tutorial, I had missed this somehow.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:14 am

WebEye wrote:Hi All,

thanks for this guide, I'm very interested to connect the RemotePi board to my oDroid-C2, because I use it for years with my pi2 and will never miss it...
I'm sure I can connect it with your guide, but I'm not sure how to fix it in a case! Have you any hints, maybe you guys can take pictures of your (selfmade) cases!

Thanks,
WebEye

Yeah, I'm also not using a ready-to-buy case for it. I don't think it could fit, as the adapter cable has to be used here.

As my odroid is hidden in a shelf behind an OLED display, I made a case which is more practical and not a beauty:
(Spacers are 30mm between top and bottom, because the shelf would not allow a larger height. I'd recommend 40mm to have more space)
Attachments
01_hidden.jpg
05_disconnected.jpg
04_disassembled.jpg
03_assembled.jpg
02_exposed.jpg
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:00 pm

infinity85 wrote:As my odroid is hidden in a shelf behind an OLED display, I made a case which is more practical and not a beauty:
(Spacers are 30mm between top and bottom, because the shelf would not allow a larger height. I'd recommend 40mm to have more space)


Wow, very nice. I think, it's a beauty....

Where did you get the plexiglas, with the specific screw-holes? This isn't the open case from MSLDigital, or? I think I'm not manual skilled like you! ;)


Thanks,
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:09 pm

Thanks :)

I bought two pieces of the glass at conrad.de (as you are also from germany). And I drilled the wholes myself. But if you buy the glass, the screws, the spacers (screws and spacers bought at ebay.de) etc. it's not as cheap as a ready-to-buy case, unfortunately. In my case I had everything at home except the plexiglass.
I think if you buy a stackable raspberry pi case, it should be possible to use the second layer for fixing the RemotePi board to it. The mounting holes for raspberry should also fit for the odroid, as far as I know.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:15 pm

Thanks for hints!

I've to check it, when the RemotePi board arrives! I bought the open case, too! Maybe it fits, if I use greater spacers....
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:23 pm

That's a good idea, probably the cheapest and neatest solution. If needed, you can find the spacers on ebay.de ("Distanzbolzen"). I Assume MSLDigital uses M2 threads for screws and spacer bolts, but could also be m2.5 . I'm sure if you ask msldigital via email, he'll tell you the exact specs. My own experience: He never left an unanswered email and never held back information :)
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Wed Jan 25, 2017 1:57 am

infinity85 wrote:My own experience: He never left an unanswered email and never held back information :)


Yes, I had a conservation in 2015 with Matt, too! ;)

Thanks again, for information.....
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Sat Jan 28, 2017 6:37 pm

One additional question:

I've missed this, but you wrote to use some thicker wires for red & blue connections! I've bought these wires Amazon
Are them good enough, or should I use other ones?

Thanks,
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:46 pm

WebEye wrote:One additional question:

I've missed this, but you wrote to use some thicker wires for red & blue connections! I've bought these wires Amazon
Are them good enough, or should I use other ones?

Thanks,
WebEye

Well, I don't know to be honest. Have similar cables here... they are usually standard jumper cables and there's not much specification info given. When I suggested thicker cables, it was because of the current of about 2.6 Amps which could go through these cables. I doubt that such standard jumper wires are meant to transport currents of 2.6A (2 wires --> 1.3A each). They'd get hot and lose voltage then, as I remember that the resistance is dependent on temperature. So it is not ensured that the Odroid would run stable in certain situations (like if you power USB HDD's with it, or have a lot of USB devices connected). Though, I think that simple powering of the naked Odroid could work with thin cables, without noticing any issues.

Perhaps here's some electrical engineer who could give profound advice whether jumper wires are ok for 5V5 GPIO powering of the odroid. I'd at least solder two of these wires together to one cable shoe to have a bigger effective thickness and to achieve a better connection to the connector. But as I said... I'm no expert regarding this, so perhaps it's not necessary at all.

EDIT
Could you tell me whether the cables (your link from amazon) are stinking very chemically? The last ones that I bought from ebay, I had to put them outside for about 3 weeks until they were tolerable for in-house use.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:45 pm

Hi,

my ODroid will be a naked one, means there is nothing connected except network cable and hdmi cable. So I will give it a try...

About the smell of the cables, I must confess, I hadn't unpack them till your message! ;) So yesterday I unpacked them, and there is a little smell, but it isn't stinky and I bet, in two, tree days all is gone....


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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Tue Jan 31, 2017 1:04 am

Just take a look at the wires and touch them to check the warmth. Perhaps LibreELEC GUI will indicate a too-low voltage by showing a rainbow coloured square in one of the upper corners (but I don't know whether this indicator is a raspberry exclusive thing).

Regarding the wires you bought: Thanks for this info! :) I'll add them to my wishlist, as the last ebay-order was the first one, which smelled so heavily.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Thu Feb 23, 2017 3:13 am

Hey infinity85,

I'm sorry my project is postponed at the moment, but I' thinking about some selfmade cables for the voltage ones. I've searched for some crimp contacts and found these ones:

female crimp contacts

But I need male ones too, and never able to find them, have you any idea to get male crimp contacts, or get an ebay / amazon link! The female ones (link) will resists 3A.

Thanks,
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:07 pm

WebEye wrote:Hey infinity85,

I'm sorry my project is postponed at the moment, but I' thinking about some selfmade cables for the voltage ones. I've searched for some crimp contacts and found these ones:

female crimp contacts

But I need male ones too, and never able to find them, have you any idea to get male crimp contacts, or get an ebay / amazon link! The female ones (link) will resists 3A.

Thanks,
WebEye
For male ones I always take a pin socket strip like this: Stiftleiste
You can seperate each of them and solder them into your female crimp contact (kabelschuh). I think simply sticking those pins into the cable shoe should be sufficient. Actually those pins are used simply as an adapter from female to male. My jumper wires that I bought 2 years ago had those female2male pins included, so I transform the female-female wires into what I wanted. Actually... I've even disassembled the cable shoes from some of my existing gpio jumper wires and soldered the shues to thicker cables for these 5V connections for the Remote Pi Board. The shipping cost/cost of the cable shoes/crimp contacts was too high for me, so I did it this way.
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Sat Feb 25, 2017 3:19 am

infinity85 wrote:For male ones I always take a pin socket strip like this: Stiftleiste
You can seperate each of them and solder them into your female crimp contact (kabelschuh). I think simply sticking those pins into the cable shoe should be sufficient. Actually those pins are used simply as an adapter from female to male. My jumper wires that I bought 2 years ago had those female2male pins included, so I transform the female-female wires into what I wanted. Actually... I've even disassembled the cable shoes from some of my existing gpio jumper wires and soldered the shues to thicker cables for these 5V connections for the Remote Pi Board. The shipping cost/cost of the cable shoes/crimp contacts was too high for me, so I did it this way.

Thanks for advise,
I'll buy these crimp contacts with pinheader! There are no shipping costs, so it's ok for me... A colleague will get me some pin socket strips, all other things I get in the technique dept. of my company.

Buy,
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Sun Mar 19, 2017 11:56 pm

Hi infinity85,

meanwhile I got all things together and build the odroid up. But the result was sobering, the ir won't work, neither the build in nor the remotepi.

Maybe you can help me out, today I will reinstall the whole device, so I can eliminate configuration issues...
So here is what I'm done:

- First setup, I think back then it was LibreElec 7.95 or something
- The build in ir works fine
- So I deactivate it with your given mini guide
- so the build in ir is now deactivated
- At the latest now I installed LibreElec 8
- connect the remotePi board
- the on/off button works fine, but nothing else

irw gives no response! Maybe you've got an idea, if I got some time today, I will reistall the device.

Thanks for help,
WebEye

PS: I've reinstalled te whole device, by creating a new image to the emmc and I've got the same issue, no ir is working! Now, I've got no idea anymore, except LibreElec 8 has huge bug....
PS2: Now, I remember, the first install was the wrxtasy patched 7.1.2 version, so maybe there were some patches, that ir works out of the box. I'll do some other attemps, and maybe then I will go back to another wrxtasy version...
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Sat Mar 25, 2017 5:13 am

As you pointed out yourself already, it is something in the Krypton LibreELEC (v8) builds. The necessary modules are not included or so.

Here's the most recent discussion starting regarding this topic: viewtopic.php?f=144&t=24753&start=750#p184030

I have also to investigate it somehow :/
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby WebEye » Sun Mar 26, 2017 4:24 am

infinity85 wrote:As you pointed out yourself already, it is something in the Krypton LibreELEC (v8) builds. The necessary modules are not included or so.

Here's the most recent discussion starting regarding this topic: viewtopic.php?f=144&t=24753&start=750#p184030

I have also to investigate it somehow :/


Hey infinity85,
welcome back!

Thanks for advise, and sorry for brothering you...
We should stop this here, I've opened another thread for my issues. Maybe this will help you too.
In short words, lirc will work with wrxtasy 7.1.2 relase, but I got additional issues! The remotepi board works very well, the open case from msldigital is not as practicable, maybe I post some pics next time...

Thanks again,
WebEye
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Re: RemotePi Board now fully compatible (shutdown & boot via

Unread postby infinity85 » Wed Apr 26, 2017 8:25 am

Updated the guide with a supplemental, for achieving LibreELEC 8 compatibility.

Today Raybuntu has released a testbuild of his 32bit krypton, which finally fixes the GPIO-IR for LibreELEC 8. I assume that it will be in LibreELEC master soon.
Though, the GPIO Pin will have to be rewired differently for krypton...see the supplemental in my opening post.
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